2020. 1. 25. 11:29ㆍ카테고리 없음
Home > Apple Parts > Power Mac Parts > ~Power Mac G4 (QuickSilver 2002ED) Fan Assembly, Without Housing. Price: $15.00. Click to enlarge. Pictures may not represent the actual product. Manufacturer Part Number: 922-3295. 60 day warranty included. Optional Extended Warranty. When re-assembling the parts, the socket wouldn't stick to the board, now I know why. I don't want to buy a new logic board, because I can't afford one, so I'm trying to find someone to solder it. Seems hard to find someone able to repair logic boards these days. Buy the Martin Pro 62400506 Lamp Fan Assembly for Mac 700 at Full Compass. Lamp fan assembly for Martin Mac 700 wash light.
This is my second time posting on iFix it. I bought a Mid 2009 MacBook Pro off of Craigslist and the guy included a new lcd with it. However after I replaced the LCD, all it shows is a black screen. I connected it to an Apple Cinema Display and everything works flawlessly I can use it like a normal computer. However the display remains black. Was this a bad LCD? I already checked the connections.Do I need an inverter?
Also the Apple logo on the top shell does not light up at all either. So I am not sure if I did something right, help would be appreciated very much, this is depressing in a way. MAJOR UPDATE: I took apart the MacBook Pro again, I found out that the LCD connection was loose lol.
Ceiling Fan Lamp
I tested it with the lcd lying on the table and then starting the mac, the lcd came on but the colors are inverted, they are pink or blue, not the correct colors, and another thing is I think I shorted the cable because as I was lifting the metal connector I pushed it back into place and a small spark blew on the lcd connector and the cable. I then re-tried it and now the lcd comes on but very faintly, you have to see it in light.does this mean I need a new LCD, and a new LCD connector from the logic board to the LCD? I was so close!! But happy to find out that it was loose connection, if this is the case oldturkey I'll happily buy a new LCD, I'm going to refurbish this one up! Please let me know!
Jabran, now it gets a bit tricky. It is possible that it is your fuse, or your WLED driver. Bad part is that this is a repair that is not easily done and may/require soldering very small parts on a delicate logic board. The fuse is a 2 AMP-32V 0402-HF SMD fuse, and something should work for your board. The WLED driver is a LP8543 made by TI. The datasheet is available. Mouser.com as well as Digikey.com should have both parts available.
I updated my original answer with an image of teh location of both. It was a bad backlight fuse, a friend of mine replaced it for me and now it works fine. But now I'm having trouble with the sleep mode on the computer!! If I close the lid it goes into a deep sleep, if I click the power button nothing happens. I have to hold the power button and then let go of it, then click it once. It will then prompt the machine to continue with system resume or it will re-boot the whole machine for some odd reason! I'm stumped at this I have been trying to find a fix for this all week, any suggestions OldTurkey?
Jabran, your model does not have an inverter. It utilizes a WLED driver on the logic board.
Lamp Assembly Kits
There is a fuse that one can check as well. This is a bit of a PITA and could be tough. Let us know how advanced you want to go with this. Anyhow, lets try the things that Apple suggest first. Here is the quick check for your computers symptoms:' Symptom Quick Check Power, but No Video.
Power. No video. fan, hard drive spin, or optical drive reset sound. sleep LED is on or went on. light if Caps Lock pressed 1. If no startup chime, verify with known-good memory. Verify with external monitor.
Press Option key on startup. Here is the deep dive for that:' Check Result Action Code 1.
Characterize video issue Define whether the issue is a bad image with backlight OR no video issue. Verify whether some image even distorted is visible. Yes Bad image quality,go to step 5. No No image seen or no backlight, go to step 2. Isolate peripherals as cause: disconnect all peripherals,external devices, Express Card and display adapters if present and verify that video is displayed. Yes Suspect peripherals as cause.
Reconnect one at a time, verifying unit operation at each stage. No Go to step 3. Adjust Brightness Power-on unit, attempt to adjust brightness to maximum using brightness (F1/F2) keys and verify that video is displayed. Yes Video displayed - Brightness set to minimum, panel backlight was inadvertently turned off. If backlight returns to low check for stuck F1 key on keyboard. No Go to step 4. Reset SMC and verify that system video is displayed.
Yes Corrupt SMC state preventing video. No Go to step 5. If no action, use external keyboard with same sequence. Verify that system video is displayed.
Yes Invalid or corrupt PRAM contents affecting video output. No Go to step 6. Connect external video: Connect known-good VGA/ DVI adapter to known-good display, press power button and close display to force main screen startup on external video. Verify that video is correct when displayed from external display. Yes Video correct on external display. Research available firmware and software updates, retest.
If returning with software already updated, go to step 7. No Replace logic board with according symptom code:-no video -bad/distorted video 7. Isolate LCD display detection: Disconnect external monitor and reopen display and restart unit.
Verify that sleep LED indicator goes off after internal LCD has been detected. Yes Sleep LED goes off when LCD detected.If still no video then Go to step 8, -If video present, but with defect, go to step 9. No Internal LCD not detected. Run Clamshell Service Diagnostic utility and check for LCD panel presence. If not found, reseat LVDS cable connection on logic board and retest.
If sleep LED does not go off after cable is reseated, go to step 10. Check for sleep sensor condition. If display assembly sleep sensor is stuck in a closed state, video will appear on internal display temporarily,until the OS sleeps the system.Disconnect BIL/ sleep cable and restart unit without external display. Verify that system starts up with video on internal display stays on and does not go into sleep mode. Yes Sleep sensor was stuck or had shorted cable.
Replace BIL/sleep sensor cable. No Symptoms unchanged. Go to step 9. Check for No Backlight. Power on unit.
Using a lamp or bright light source, verify that a faint image or Apple logo appears. Yes Logo image visible - check LVDS cable. Inspect cables fordamage near clutches: - if damaged, replace display assembly and go to step 11 - if cable is not damaged, run Clamshell Service Diagnostic utility and check for LCD panel presence.
If not found, reseat cable and retest, then go to step 11. No If symptom continues,go to step 10. Verify with Known good display assembly Connect known-good display assembly to system. Yes System is functioning with known-good display assembly Replace display assembly if following symptom reporting: - had no power issue - had incorrect/missing colors - had blank video - had distorted / blurred video - had vertical/horizontal lines - had noise/unstable flickering - had dim backlight - had bad spot(s)/pixels - had no backlight - could not change resolution No Symptoms unchanged - replace logic board. Verify with reseated LVDS cable or replaced display assembly Verify that unit now has video and backlight. Yes Issue was only due to damaged display assembly or unseated cable.
No Display cable damaged the logic board. Replace logic board. The only thing I'd skip for now is the replacement of the logic board. Let us know what happened. Hope this helps, good luck. Hi OldTurkey03. Many thanks for this wonderful flowchart for diagnosing video issues on this one.
I used your flowchart to determine my issue with video. Mine is a Macbook 13 2009, white unibody. Mine is a problem caused by a mishap. The macbook started up fine and booted good. I saw video and everything was great. Then i opened the bottom cover, removed battery connector and installed a new hard drive.
Connected it to the data cable but forgot to put back locking bar of the hard disk. I turned the system on, everything worked good. Then!@#$ broke loose when i raised the front of the laptop. The hard disk came off and slid on the logicboad towards the video connector. The computer shorted and turned off. When i turned it back on, i lost video almost completely.
The laptop now chimes, starts good, boots up. I can see the laptop boots up successfully because i can see the video on the black screen.
I can see the Mac OSX 10.6 Interface. But that is all.
I am also able to see the video in an external monitor using a Thunderbolt connector on the VGA port. So, almost all is well with the logicboard, except i fear i may have blown 'the fuse' because this one too must use a WLED driver becacuse there is no inverter connection to the logicboard. I have also tried to reset PRAM NVRAM and did not help. Any idea what i can do to revive my Macbook Unibody whte? One more thing, my logicboard is slightly different in ergonomics to the picture you posted up there. The VGA interface connector is located at the corer and is about 45 degrees to the corner, as opposed to yours running parallel to the RHS of the board, or at 90 degrees to the front side. Here is an iFixit link to the VGA port Interface and possible location of the fuse and driver chip.
Update by the way, i also replaced the display with one from another working macbook. Sysmptoms are still the same.
Yes, I read the pdf and the written manual. There is absolutely nothing in the Apple manual about how to remove the memory bay so that the heat sink cover can come off so that the front fan can be removed to access the SATA ports on the Mac Pro board. The G5 fan removal is soooo much easier. What is really funny is that if you read the manual it says on page 47, 'To adjust the bandwidth of the PCI Express slots in your Mac Pro, use the Expansion Slot utility, located in the Utilities folder within the applications folder.' There is no 'Expansion Slot utility' on the hard drive or on the install disks.
Someone goofed 😉 Have fun! My experience (from doing this today) was that I had to drill out the two screws holding the memory cage in place.
It is definitly a error on the design/assembly, you see there is too much loctite on the two screws. Once I got the cage off, I could remove the two mounting screws? Under the cage and then using some pliers, got the screws (what was left of them) out. Nothing but blue loctite up and down the entire thread length, WAY OVERKILL!
I am glad that I went ahead and dealt with that headache, now I've got it all reassembled and screwed them down using two nice screws with NO loctite. I also, used blue painters tape to seal off all around the memory cage to prevent metal chips from getting anyway. Plus I recommend running the drill at a low speed so stuff doesnt go flying.
Then vacuum out everything just to be sure. When all was said and done, you can't even tell an operation took place. The patient is alive and well. Other then that issue, everything pretty much pulls out just fine. If any of you are trying to run a SATA cable from the extra motherboard slots to a fifth drive under the DVD drive, it may be easier to buy some really good angled needle nose tools rather than dissamble you Mac Pro.
Without removing the fam or anything needing a screw, I just installed a 500GB SATA drive in the slot under the DVD Burner. All I needed was a right angle SATA cable, a SATA power adapter for the standard power connector sitting emtpy under the burner, and hard drive install brackets to adapt the drive to the larger bay. Parts were bought locally at a PC Club store (right angle SATA cable) in LA and CompUSA (drive brackets and power/Molex adapter). Did not have to unscrew anything.
Did slide out the adjacent drive bays 1 and 2 for more room. With patience, I was able to snake the cable under the back of the fan housing to a gap in the front of the first drive bay entering the upper chamber, right near the drive. Tight fit for everything, but it works great. As noted in other posts, Windows does not see or use any drive connected to this port. BTW the Expansion Slot Utility is in: /System/Library/CoreServices. Apple Footer. This site contains user submitted content, comments and opinions and is for informational purposes only.
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